Climbing Guide The Wall - North Face of Triglav
Climbing Guide The Wall - North Face of Triglav
(Miha Valic, Marko Prezelj, Janez Skok)
In the autumn of 2008, after successfully climbing Cho Oyu, the initiator and guide's motorbike rider Miha Valič had a fatal accident during the descent. Just before leaving for Tibet, he submitted the first version of the text and route sketches for the guide to the Wall, which we had been working on for several years. There were several reasons, in addition to being busy with our own climbing, the main one being that at that time, only 22 routes with variants were described and sketched in the blue guide Climbing Ascents • Eastern Julian Alps from 1970, and the main climbing boom in the wall occurred later.
It was necessary to organize, draw and decipher a labyrinth of hundreds of routes with variants of several hundred meters. Many of them were poorly documented with unclear routes or unverified difficulties. When the guide was first published in 2011, we managed to collect data for approximately 120 routes and variants.
In the last edition, the number of routes and variants approached 150, and it is very likely that all routes that have been climbed on the wall have now been documented and drawn. Most of the most difficult ones have been repeated in the last decade, and the assessments and sketches have been corrected and supplemented. There have also been some excellent new routes and some ambiguities related to the routes of Franček Knez, who, with various co-climbers, has drawn by far the most routes on the Wall.
The guide is based on an as accurate depiction of the route as possible in photographs and detailed sketches, and most routes are also accompanied by a brief description or commentary from repeaters.
Since the Wall was also a hotbed of rivalry between Germanic and Slovenian climbers for the national championship in climbing problems of the time, the more curious will be welcomed by a comprehensive, popular overview of the climbing history of the Wall, contributed by Aleksander Bjelčevič.
Characteristics:
- Format 13 x 21 cm
- soft plastic covers
- 192 pages
- color photographs and sketches