Škrlatiške grede route

I flip through Mihelič’s guidebook. I can’t find anything suitable for a solo attempt. What is suitable doesn’t convince me. I stop at Škrlatiške grede. I remember when, years ago, Luka and I were climbing in Skalaški pillar, I looked over the edge and noticed steep, dark walls. A sight that stays etched in your memory. Back then, I told myself I had to see it up close. Apparently, this opportunity has come.
I leave the car at the third bent on the Vršič pass. Slowly, the day awakens, and with it, the hikers. Already down in Little Tamar, I realize I forgot my photo camera in the car. Curses fly out of me. I think to myself whether to go back to the car, which would take about fifteen minutes if I’m quick, or to continue without it. Since I also have a telephoto lens in my backpack, I decide to go back. After all, this doesn’t mean the end of the tour, just one less stop. Besides, I reserved this day specifically for photography. And that’s it!
In less than half an hour, I’m at the hut in Krnica. I greet the caretaker with the words, “Where is everyone?” to which he replies that some have already gone ahead, and there’s no one else. He continues cleaning the flower pots on the windowsills…
The path to Dnina is no longer the path it used to be. In this area, you used to meet only a chamois or ibex; people were rare, unless you were an alpinist. And even those were few and far between here. Today, the trail is well-trodden, heavily marked, and worn down. Because of this, the number of hikers in this area has increased. The chamois no longer have peace, as shouting and loud talking echo through the valley on the way to Ponca.

I left the trail near the bivouac and headed up the scree slope. Down at the entrance, I settled in comfortably and took my time. The valley was forecasted to reach 32 degrees Celsius, but I felt a slight chill. So, I quickly packed everything up and made my way to the first ledge, strongly favoring the right side, where it seemed easier to reach the summit. Up top, I came across a bolted anchor that somehow felt out of place. The traverses came one after another. Since we had climbed and hiked Zlatorogove routes a week earlier, the terrain of Škrlatiške grede felt quite familiar. A ledge here, a ledge there, with plenty of scree in between. Still, I must admit that the rock on the ledges is quite good. Much better than on most of Zlatorogove routes.
The only somewhat challenging spot was the step onto one of the ledges around a flake that looked rather fragile. But with a few athletic moves, I managed to elegantly climb onto the ledge on the other side. From there, the ledge led into a kind of cirque, surrounded by the aforementioned dark and steep walls. The traverses were easy, and the continuation was clearly visible and marked with cairns.

During my climb, I followed two descriptions. The first was Mihelič’s, which described the climb in a descending manner, and the second I found online. But no one describes the final 100 to 200 meters of elevation gain as you approach the ridge. Mihelič doesn’t explain how to reach the gully, while the other guide briefly mentions that you eventually climb onto the ridge between Škrlatica and Rakova Špica. But this ridge isn’t short, so you can have plenty of doubts about where to climb onto it.
Where the guidebook says to turn directly onto the ridge and then continue into the gully, the final part of the climb begins. The transition into the very obvious gully isn’t difficult. Navigation is straightforward. You just traverse sideways toward the gully until you’re in it. The rock is good the entire time. Climbing in the gully, which continues for about three pitches, is enjoyable and trouble-free. Mostly around grade II. Higher up, the gully starts to close in and directs you to the left. Soon, you look over the left edge, where the lowest part of the ridge between Škrlatica and Rakova Špica is clearly visible. The ridge is beautiful. But what lies beneath the ridge on the northern side is something entirely different. Shattered rock! I assess whether I need to descend into this bed terrain or not. I am wondering… I decide to descend about 30 meters and check if there’s a passage under the ridge there. I think it might be possible to access the summit from there. Below, I find a piton and a cord. I look over the edge and take about 10 steps to the other side of the ridge when something tells me to double-check and make sure there isn’t access to the ridge by continuing up the gully, slightly more to the right and then back to the left. Since the crumbling ledges don’t convince me, I return to the piton and continue climbing up the gully. I climb another 100–150 meters until I finally reach the ridge. I’m quite skeptical that I’ve come the right way. Everything feels quite far from the ridge where I expected my goal to be.

When I take a moment to look around and assess the ridge, it all becomes clear. The terrain on the other side levels out, and the passage to the ledge below me is open and easy. When I turn back toward the gully, I spot a cairn that I had missed when I arrived. Clearly, I’m on the right path!

Overjoyed, I greet at least fifty hikers in Zadnji Dolek, who are preparing to climb Škrlatica, and I sit down contentedly on the sharp edge of the ridge. I sit like a king! And the snack I have is just as fitting :)

The descent down the scree-covered ledges and ridges requires caution. Years ago, Andrej and I were searching for the descent here after climbing from Desna Zajeda on Rakova Špica. Dusk was already falling. We decided to descend to the right, down steep slabs and ledges on the southern slope of Rakova Špica. When I looked up from Zadnji Dolek at where we had walked, a shiver ran through me… The actual descent follows the left side (when looking from the ridge toward Zadnji Dolek), where I continued my path. Then I ascended to Rdeča Škrbina below Dolkovo Špica. From there, I continued toward Kriški Podi and the via ferrata in Krnica. And from there, back to civilization…