Slovenian route in Triglav
Slovenian route in Triglav
Who among serious mountaineers does not know the Slovenian route in Triglav or Stena? Climbed as the first route in Triglav in 1890, if we do not take into account the jagras, who climbed and wandered everywhere as far as the eye could see, or where ibex and chamois had their paradise on earth.
Entering the direction
The route is entered above the first threshold, where the comfortable mountain path ends and a helmet and climbing harness are put on. We should mention at the very beginning that you should not do this "alone at home", but rather boldly choose a mountain guide , because you will be in safe hands and the trip will be truly memorable for the magnificent moments and not necessarily for the smell of the hospital.
After the first serious and steep steps, you will turn towards the Larch trees at the crossroads with the German direction and continue towards Beli plate. Here you will feel real, solid rock and climbing will seem truly enjoyable.
There are no major orientation loops up to here; only a little lower down do you have the opportunity to stray from the path, but the steep progression will force you to scratch your helmet and remember that the passes here really shouldn't be rated five or higher (it requires the thinking of first-time climbers who were looking for the easiest passes).
Other serious steps
Above Beli platmi it settles down and the view already wanders towards Bučerjeva stena. You reach it via a steep step with excellent rock. You can leave your mark on history by signing the entry book. You can take off your backpack for a moment, sit down and take a break in royal peace, because if you want to cross into Slovenska grapa, you will have to climb Bučerjeva stena, which is the most technical part of the route. The choice is yours whether you will climb it in shoes or climbing shoes .
Through the exit shelves
In the wide Slovenska grapa, you will probably leave your shoe prints in last year's snow. Walking, climbing and looking for chamois will take place in the Slovenska grapa for quite some time, as the grapa is really long and wide. At its end, there are two options; the winter Prevč exit or the exit via the Frelihova shelf. In summer, the latter is of course recommended, as it is of course much more mountainous and adrenaline-filled; by walking along the narrow shelf, your gaze will sail back to Vrata, your breath will be shallow, your concentration will be high, and the guide will finally have some peace and quiet before your words...
When you are back on "solid ground" and put on a warm sweater or windbreaker , you will realize (even more so later at home) that you have done something extraordinary. You have fulfilled a long-simmering desire to climb in the primeval nature of the Wall.
The Gornik team wishes you beautiful moments :)
