Via Ferrata - extremely demanding secured climbing routes

**Ferrata - What the Hell Is It Anyway?**
We admit, this term catches on faster here than snow in December on bare ground. Ferratas are secured routes with steel cables, rungs, ladders, and additional safety features that help us overcome the path to our desired goal. If we had to define ferratas with grades, we’d say that true ferratas start at grade C, which already involves challenging overhangs, smooth slabs, and requires more arm strength. Grades today even reach level F, which means overcoming larger roofs and having significant arm strength. For movement, climbing gear is required, and basic climbing techniques must be mastered (3 points of contact, precise foot placement).

In Slovenia, we started talking about the first true ferrata in 2011 when Gonžarjeva Peč was opened in Vinska Gora, where you can test your strength and endurance on a short but sweet ferrata. More about this Via Ferrata

Before this ferrata, our routes could be categorized as very demanding trails, as they were well-secured, with safety features always within reach. Since these trails are longer, the focus here was more on the mental aspect than the physical. This is further compounded by the questionable quality of our rock, which is why we should never underestimate our trails.

Today, we also have an extremely demanding secured route on Lisco, a true gem hidden above Zelenica in the Gorenjska region. The masters of the mountains, the Jezerjani, have also added their touch with a challenging ferrata below Češka Koča. In winter, you can train in Glinščica, and Mojstrana will soon also be enriched with a ferrata.

Hiking on secured trails can be a great pleasure, but we must be aware that it offers many pitfalls that we might not know about or anticipate. On extremely difficult overhanging ferratas, turning back is often impossible, so only those in peak physical condition should attempt them. Rescue operations are also highly demanding, and injuries during ferrata climbing can be extremely serious despite all the equipment. On extremely difficult ferratas, knowledge of rope techniques, additional safety measures, and the ability to lift/lower a partner who is incapacitated is essential. Knots must be known with extreme precision, as they are the foundation for maneuvering through challenging sections.

The equipment available in stores does not guarantee that we are now safe and can rush into any ferrata we see. Overestimating ourselves can cost us our lives.

What we need:

• Helmet is an extremely important piece of equipment that protects our head from impacts, which can be much more painful on ferratas (e.g., hitting a fixed anchor). Climbing helmet
• 
  Climbing harness (must be comfortable, allow for comfortable hanging, and have climber-friendly gear loops). Climbing harness
• Vias Ferrata set reduces the force acting on the body and allows us to walk away with minor scrapes and injuries. Via Ferrata set Easy Rider
• Nylon Sling (60 - 120 cm) allows for easier resting on the steel cable. Nylon Sling
• Screw gate Carabiner (e.g., AustriAlpin Rondo Carabiner)
• First aid kit!! Never set out on a trail without a first aid kit!
• Good shoes with climbing or Vibram rubber soles (e.g., Women's Gecko Shoes or Rebel Lite Shoes).

When venturing onto more difficult ferratas, you will also need a belay device that allows for lifting or lowering (such as an ATC Guide or similar), two auxiliary cords with a diameter of at least 6mm and a length of 5m, slings, and a guide rope. Additionally, you will need at least 4 screwgate carabiners and various tools to assist with easier lifting or lowering.

The importance of using a self-braking system is clearly demonstrated in the following video, as well as why you should avoid using homemade self-braking systems:

Here are a few more suggestions for excellent ferratas abroad:
Suggestions: Link
If you are unsure of your abilities, tackle ferratas with more experienced individuals, through a mountaineering club, or with a mountain guide.
We wish you a pleasant start and many beautiful moments and memories from ferratas, wherever you decide to take them on.
The author of all the photos below is Matjaž Sušnik, a guide from the PD Kranj mountaineering club and the visionary leader of the School for Safe Movement in the Mountains.